Waterfire brazier. Photo by the author.

Despite my passing through middle age, I am still naïve enough or wise enough to argue that it is the duty of any creative intellectual to improve the place where he or she lives and works. The artist in particular has remarkable power in this area–if they can obtain the consensus and resources to realize something visionary.

I know of no finer example of a civic life enlivened and refreshed by artistic work than Waterfire, a blending of art, ceremony, ritual, and civic engagement that is the crowing achievement of the restoration of the crumbling waterfront district of Providence, RI. Although we lived in Rhode Island for over five years, circumstances (mostly a function of economics) kept us from attending this remarkable event. A mistake on our part. Occasion found us in the area this past Saturday (29 September) so we went.

Fire on the river. Photo by the author.

The event is based around a series of metal braziers built out in the confluence of the Providence, Woonasquatucket and Moshassuck rivers that flow through the city. Around sunset wood fires are lit in these braziers, to burn into the night. Boats slowly make their way up and down the river; some are for the fire tenders who, dressed in black like kabuki set-changers, go from fire to fire, adding wood when the fires burn low. Italian-style gondolas work their way up and down the water.

Accompanying the fires is a selection of music played on a surprisingly good outdoor sound system. Music ranges from modern compositions to Gregorian chant to an aria from an Italian opera. All of it is striking, sensual, and rich. People gather by the water’s edge and walk along the shore looking at the flames, sometimes accented by oil lamps suspended along the walkways. Young and old meet and mix, couples stroll or snuggle on benches. There are a few vendors, but not too many. Some areas have little tables where people can enjoy a drink or a light meal. The sounds, the scent of wood smoke, the fire throwing orange beacons on the water, the boats, all of it creates a gentle carnival atmosphere without the incessant harangue you would find at more conventional fairs. The Dutch have a word, “gezellig”, that was made for this kind of event. There is no adequate translation into English. “Cozy” is a start, but not nearly expansive enough. Think of a warm evening of lively, fun conversation over cups of something warm and cheering beside a fireplace with good friends. Hanging out. Feeling at ease and comfortable.

A gondola backlit by flames. Photo by the author.

Attending this event, it took me a little while to process the genius of this work of art, for such it is, and it is wisely and appropriately recognized as such. Using the idea of the fire around which to form a communal event was a natural, albeit brilliant innovation. Particularly by spreading it along a river. Fire and water together, two of the primal “elements”, two things that naturally draw people and provoke a sense of fun, wonder, or contemplation. The event takes on a feeling of its own and seems to have its own moods from night to night, from place to place along the river, or from moment to moment.

Waterfire also has the effect of generating art of its own. People bring cameras and take pictures. Music has been composed for it and other events built around it. It inspires additional creative and communal activity. You have to experience it to get a real grasp of it. If you are ever in Providence, Rhode Island on a weekend during most of the Summer months and into the Fall, don’t miss it.

http://www.waterfire.org/